Posts mit dem Label Akai Hardware Repair werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Akai Hardware Repair werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

Donnerstag, 2. Oktober 2014

Troubleshooting Floppy Replacing

With the help of this blog we have been able to repair some old akai sampler. I hope they work another 20 years flawlessly :)
Since every problem a repair is different, I'll post some details.


Daniel de Graaf from NYC wrote me:
 

 
lovely tutorial on replacing the floppy drive in the akai s1100. I have followed your instructions and replaced a 235HF-270u with a 235HF-217u like in your tutorial. I have matched the pinout too etc

The issue I have is that the drive will read discs but not format, write, or load to RAM . I get a few errors "DISK NOT READY!" and "NO DRIVE" and "NO DISC" ... Also I only have s950 discs and a few blank discs. It will read the s950 discs and see programs and samples, but the akai freezes when i try to upload those samples with "P+C".

the electronic retailer I bought this from assured they are all tested to write,read, and format on PCs before they are sold. She mentioned there may be a firmware issue happening.

Do you have any idea how and if I can fix this? I also had her ship me out a few other floppy (another 217, a 240?...) drives to test.

 
I answered him:

 
sounds like the jumpers not set correct. The problem is, there are different versions of the 235HF-217-U. Seems like later versions don’t have the DC/RY Jumper so you have to solder the pinout.

 
The jumpers/sliders to change are 2: one selects which drive enable line it will use and one selects what line will be used for floppy detect. The Drive Select jumper is rather easy to find as it is usually labeled "DS": DS0 (for Drive Select 0) and DS1 (for Drive select 1) - you must move it from DS1 to DS0.
Now for the trickier part: you have to change the Floppy Sense or Disk Change to Ready signal. This may be labeled DC/RY. This is a deviator type jumper or slider (usually 3 pins, 1-2 for one setting and 2-3 for another) but can also be a 2pin jumper *or* a "rotatable" jumper if located in a jumper matrix (check 1st pic). This means you need to rotate a jumper left or right 90 degrees from it's default position around one of it's 2 pins. This simply modifies the pin 34 signal (which is usually Disk Change) and reassigns it to send the "Ready" signal.

Well that's it. If you manage to reconfigure these 2 settings, you have a perfectly compatible AKAI (and Amiga) floppy unit which you can use again.

One last note: if you don't have any reference on your floppy for this DC/RY jumper, you may discover it by trial and error - I did this many times as it took me less to try the 3 or 4 settings than to understand where the jumpers went and study the pcb. A good hint on knowing that you hit the right jumper is that when you move it your AKAI shouldn't report a "floppy not ready" or similar error when you have a floppy inserted. Infact line 34, which the AKAI interprets as the Ready Signal is (before the re-configuration) the Disk Change signal. As they behave with inverted logical values (one is active low the other active high) if you leave no disk in the drive, the AKAI will think that the drive is ready and try to read from it! So this will give you some feedback on the jumper you are toggling or moving if it stops doing that (you may have hit the jackpot). 

The sources of the Infos are these other great sites. I really want say thx to all people who sharing so usefull Information. 

http://akaiscsifaq.digidude.net/

http://www.pitsch.de/stuff/amiga/floppy.htm

 

Donnerstag, 31. Juli 2014

Akai S1100 floppy drive replacement

Hello, and welcome to my floppy drive replacement tutorial. I did this on my S1100 and its really easy if you dont got 2 left hands. You dont need to be a technican, but be carfull of everything what you are doing. First of all, remove the powerchord. Dont touch any chips on the board, you can easy damage them with static voltage. If you got, use antistatic equipment.

01. Open the S1100, loose the screws from display panel on the top and bottom. Remove power and data cable from floppy drive.



02. Pull the front panel, so you can see the floppy holdin screws.



03. There are 3 screws holdin the floppy drive on case, loose them.



04. Now pull the floppy drive diagonal backwards. Be carefull!



05. Now you got the floppy in your hand. Good job :)



06. Loose 4 screws from the drive holder. Be careful of the power switch.



07. This was my original floppy drive, a Teac 235HF 217 U. You are lucky if u got the same replacement drive! If you dont got the same, you can buy a Akai drive for 70$ on Ebay or you look for an old drive which works with the akai sampler. 



Teac 235HF 217 U. Jumper: FG, D0, LHI (works 100% )



Teac 235HF 3217. Jumper: DS0, LHI, RY34, HF, REN, and FG. Use this Jumper Setting for the Akai S1100 on my picture (works 100%)

The Teac 3201, 3217,3240, 3291 are same series, they should all have the jumper like in my picture and same settings.

This is the standard jumper setting for pc use.
 

Dienstag, 22. Juli 2014

Amiga mod for Sony 920 MPF z/121 floppy drives

Here is an Amiga mod for Sony 920 MPF z/121 floppy drives using in Akai S1000/S1100 samplers, tested by my friend Takis (Zombie).

This is what i came up with, i did see some schematics on a Czech site for the "Z" series but they did not work properly. I tested their fix using "The killing Game show" which took great delight in refusing to load the actual game with their fix. My fix works fine. I do not have X-copy so I'm unable to check that function, but i am pretty confident that it will work fine.

The model i used is the Sony MPF 920 z/121 which is still on sale in stores (and also the z/131 which i have not
seen).


The mod itself is pretty easy, 2 wires, cutting a trace and moving a Zero ohm resistor. The low res pic is shown below and the hi-res pic (Link below) shows everything you need to know.





Here is the HD disable pic (This forces the drive to treat all inserted floppys as Double Density) AKA 880k Amiga discs.





As you can see we just need to short the two points on SW3.


Here is what is needed to be done in order for the A1200 case to close properly. All the marked area has to be removed or bent back in order for the top case to fit properly. It is really easy to do, just use a dremel or hacksaw blade on the left and right side and then use a pair of pliers to bend the metal up and back.





and here is if finished and fitted. Notice that the button had to be trimmed on the left side so it didn't interfere with the top portion of the case. The button is a little on the short side, but works ok. Overall the drive is a lot quieter than the POS that was in there originally. I'll probably fashion a button extension piece out of scrap plastic and glue.



The original Post is from kipper2k on http://eab.abime.net